Aviary is Haunted

Hell, I’ll stake you, Kid.

Liked the Molly Arlington even before learning it was inspired by the Goodman’s production of Eugene O’Neill’s The Iceman Cometh, starring Brian Dennehy and Nathan Lane:

The front office of the Goodman got wind of the burgeoning tradition and approached what could easily be called Chicago’s most original cocktail lounge, The Aviary, to create an Iceman-inspired potion to serve to the cast and crew after one of their final rehearsals.

Craig Schoettler, the executive chef at The Aviary, loved the idea. He created the Molly Arlington, a punch featuring Seville orange shrub, Paul Beau VS Cognac, Henriot Blanc de Blanc, and grated nutmeg.

Schoettler chose it not only because punches were popular around the turn of the century but also because they can be made in a large bowl and shared.

“It was a big group, a cast, a big family and this had the communal feeling of sharing something, a bringing-people-together kind of thing,” Schoettler says. “Also, in a punch bowl there’s a large block of ice.”

Can’t wait to see the play. (Ahab’s already had the cocktail it inspired.)

If money’s to be the measurer, man, and the accountants have computed their great counting-house the globe, by girdling it with guineas, one to every three parts of an inch; then, let me tell thee, that my vengeance will fetch a great premium here!

From farm to cocktail?

It’s the newest thing apparently.

So that all deified Nature absolutely paints like the harlot, whose allurements cover nothing but the charnel-house within…

Although he’s been eagerly anticipating this for weeks, Ahab somehow missed #soyeahduh’s first Aviary post:

Aviary Cocktails to All Other Drinks

Also Fernet Branca shots were shared

Amidst a field-trip to Nashville this weekend to duck NATO summit shenanigans, Ahab enjoyed dinner at The Catbird Seat, which has all sorts of Chicago connections. Beverage Director Jane Lopes once upon a time tended bar at The Violet Hour and later managed LUSH Wine and Spirits. Sous chef Mayme Gretsch worked at Alinea. And Co-Chef Josh Habiger is another Alinea vet who helped open Aviary. Which explains why Ahab is blogging about it here. (Co-Chef Erik Anderson somehow avoided Chicago although he staged at the French Laundry and Noma.)

Dinner was fan-freaking-tastic. Highlights included (i) an incredibly rich, intense ramp vichyssoise with watercress, violet, pickled carrots, and grilled pork belly, in which the pork belly remarkably took a secondary role and (ii) in place of a transitionary cheese course, hay-infused, carmelized yogurt with strawberries, chamomille, and puffed wild rice, which was an absolute revelation. But really everything was delicious. In fact, in terms of smash dishes vs. less successful ones, the hit ratio was better than some meals Ahab’s enjoyed at places like Alinea and Per Se.

A special note about the beverage pairings also is warranted. Lopes is pairing with really unusual, interesting wines, which compliment the food superbly. And she’s not afraid to play with them a bit either. Marc Hébrart Brut Rosé was served with quince vinegar and honey and the 2008 Trimbach Gewürztraminer was carbonated with a small infusion of CO2. Both treatments significantly enhanced the pairings. No doubt about it, Lopes really has her shit together.

This tattooing had been the work of a departed prophet and seer of his island, who, by those hieroglyphic marks, had written out on his body a complete theory of the heavens and the earth, and a mystical treatise on the art of attaining truth.

Just don’t call it a beer dinner, ok?

Eight years ago, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø was a math and physics teacher experimenting with home brewing in his kitchen in Copenhagen. Today, his brewery Mikeller is generally considered to be one of the most innovative and interesting in the world. And on June 20, Bjergsø will be at Aviary for a Mikeller beer event.

Email Aviary for tickets, which are $90 per person. They’ll be pouring a progression of Mikkeller beers paired with Aviary bites, and “you may be able to try some Mikkeller beers that have never (and will never again) make it to the US.”

And perhaps, at mid-day, in the fairest weather, with one half-throttled shriek you drop through that transparent air into the summer sea, no more to rise for ever. Heed it well, ye Pantheists!

Ahab really ought to be up for Best Bar Mentor

Tales of the Cocktail® is one of the world’s premier cocktail festivals, held annually in New Orleans. awesome, and Ahab would love to attend someday. But the Spirited Awards® announced each year at the Tales of the Cocktail® are a bit goofy, mainly because there are so damn many of them:

  • American Bartender of the Year
  • Best American Brand Ambassador
  • Best American Cocktail Bar
  • Best Bar Mentor
  • Best High Volume Cocktail Bar
  • Best International Brand Ambassador
  • Best New Product
  • Best Restaurant Bar
  • International Bartender of the Year
  • World’s Best Cocktail Bar
  • World’s Best Cocktail Menu
  • World’s Best Drinks Selection
  • World’s Best Hotel Bar
  • World’s Best New Cocktail Bar

See what I mean? Anyway, here are the finalists for the 2012 Spirited Awards®, announced earlier today. Aviary is a finalist for “World’s Best Cocktail Menu” and “World’s Best New Cocktail Bar” but did not make the list of “Best American Cocktail Bars.” Seriously, what the heck does that mean?

The rushing Pequod, freighted with savages, and laden with fire, and burning a corpse, and plunging into the blackness of darkness, seemed the material counterpart of her monomaniac commander’s soul.

With Nick Kokonas’ endorsement, here’s an expansive Aviary review at Eat Drink and Be Merry. The key graph:

I have never been to Alinea but what I had heard from people that have is that Chef Grant Ahcatz isn’t so much about placing good food in front of you as he is providing an interactive and eye-opening experience. Chef Schoettler has successfully done all that with a liquid dinner and although this “dinner” was anything but affordable, I can honestly say it was well worth it.

But go read the whole thing because it’s a thorough and interesting look at Aviary. The reviewer is Dylan James Ho, a Los Angeles-based writer and photographer, who’s been documenting the cocktail scene there since 2008.

Look ye, Quohog, we’ll give ye the ninetieth lay, and that’s more than ever was given a harpooneer yet out of Nantucket

Nick Kokonas will deliver the opening keynote at this month’s Technori Pitch Chicago on Tuesday, May 29. (Technori Pitch is a monthly conference bringing together entrepreneurs, developers, designers, investors and technology enthusiasts to check out Chicago startups.) Likely the audience will be interested in hearing about the innovative, disruptive aspects of Kokonas’ collaborations with Chef Grant Achatz — the emphasis on social media (at the expense of official websites), Next’s ticketing system (vice reservations), the Paris and Thai ebooks, and maybe even the “interesting, amazing food-focused television show” they’ve been kicking around. Ahab hopes simply that Kokonas confirms the next Aviary will not be in South Beach.

Young man, thou art skylarking with me — explain thyself, thou young Hittite.

Aviary at home, anyone?

The last word on the Beard Awards is an interview with Beard Foundation Vice President Mitchell Davis. Actually, the interview sucks because it’s mostly empty PR speak and Davis doesn’t seem to like cocktails very much. (E.g., “The many attempts to pair cocktails with different meals, course by course, can get in the way. It just kills you, kills your palate. And of course the alcohol knocks you out.”)

But the piece remains link-worthy because there are recipes from each of the Outstanding Cocktail Program semi-finalists. Unfortunately, Aviary’s recipe is for the Bitter, a repeat. Which reminds me it’s past time all of Aviary’s cocktail recipes were collected in one spot.

Over unsounded gorges, through the rifled hearts of mountains, under torrents’ beds, unerringly I rush! Naught’s an obstacle, naught’s an angle to the iron way!